CAMDEN CLIMBING FESTIVAL
CLINICS
Camden Climbing Festival 2025 is excited to announce guest guiding and clinics for novices and experienced climbers. First time climbers will receive excellent instruction from our all-star Maine climbing instructor team, who call Camden rock climbing home. Experienced climbers looking to expand their current skills into leading sport, traditional, rescue, and mindset — will have one of the top climbing instructors in the business at their fingertips. All climbing equipment will be provided for beginners so all you have to do is show up with a backpack filled with the essentials: water, snacks, and comfortable clothing and sneakers for moderate hikes with fellow climbers to one of several Camden cliffs. We encourage seasoned climbers to climb on their own as well as participate in and provide support during the clinics. CCF is all about mentorship and your experience is valued!
THE CLINICS
CLIFF AND TRAIL MAINTENANCE
Guide’s Wall - Friday PM
Camden Hills State Park Trails Supervisor, trail runner and rock climber, Eriks Brooks and CCF founder and local climbing professional, Ryan Howes will be teaming up for this comprehensive clinic on maintaining the cliffs and trails we climbers love. Over the past two festivals, Erik has led CCF participants on volunteer initiatives to take care of recognized state park trails. This will be the first year we focus on a climber trail and cliff - the Guide’s Wall. Erik will focus on trail maintenance and Ryan will focus on cliff maintenance, including the basic tools and best practices. Take these newly discovered and practiced skills to your climbing region and teach your community how to properly maintain climbing areas. A little bit really goes a long ways!
INTRODUCTION TO ROCK CLIMBING
Barrett’s Cove Cliff - Saturday AM
Experience top rope rock climbing at Barrett’s Cove Cliff with sweeping views of Lake Megunticook. That’s right, the view is amazing and so is the rock. Barrett’s Cove is a 250’ cliff composed of metamorphic schist, which is a very grippy, high friction rock. You will learn the basics of how to be prepared for a day of rock climbing, the equipment climbers use, how we safely set up climbs, movement on rock, climber communication / lingo, anchor construction, and general risk management. Several instructors will be available to support the process so everyone participating gets the attention they deserve. This clinic is ideal for new climbers, but experienced climbers are welcome to support the growth of novice climbers, plus you will get to climb loads of fun routes.
LEAD CLIMBING SPORT
The Outback - Saturday AM
Learn and cultivate the basic techniques for leading sport climbs with some of Camden’s top sport climbers and route developers. We cover topics such as: equipment overview and use, route selection, proper clipping do’s and don’ts, communication, how to be a good belayer, basic anchoring techniques, climbing and clipping strategy, falling, etiquette, and more. After learning the basics, all participants will lead at least one sport climb with the safety of a top rope. All participants must have at least one year of indoor or outdoor climbing experience and come prepared with personal climbing equipment including: helmet, harness, shoes, chalk bag, and belay device with locking carabiner. Additional equipment including a 60 meter climbing rope, protective rope bag or tarp, 10 quickdraws, and personal anchoring system (PAS) is recommended but not necessary as CCF will have these items for the clinic.
LEAD CLIMBING SINGLE PITCH TRAD
Guide’s Wall / Ramparts - Saturday AM
Learn and cultivate the basic techniques for leading traditional climbs with some of Camden’s top trad climbers and route developers. We will introduce multiple topics including: The Rack, racking up, macro and microstructure, passive and active placements, direct clips and extension, good belaying skills, communication, rope management and more. After learning the basics, participant will have at least one chance to practice leading, while on top rope for safety. All participants must have at least one year of outdoor climbing experience and indoor lead climbing experience is recommended. Come prepared with personal climbing equipment including: helmet, harness, shoes, chalk bag, belay device with locking carabiner and personal anchoring system (PAS). CCF instructors will provide racks and ropes, but do bring yours if you have them. Again, we look forward to helping you learn these basics and getting you on the wall with top rope assistance for safety and lead climbing practice.
TOP-MANAGED BELAY / RAPPEL SYSTEMS
Verticals - Saturday PM
Learning how to set up climbs takes a lot of time and practice under the supervision of a professional climbing instructor or a trusted and competent climbing buddy. Unless this individual knows how to lead climb, how are climbs set up and properly managed? This clinic shows you how. It is recommended for experienced climbers and/or CCF participants who have successfully completed the morning clinic Introduction to Rock Climbing.
After hiking to the top of the Verticals, climbers will suit up, assess various anchor types and learn how to managed top accessed climbs by setting up belayed rappels. The CCF team will be present to demonstrate and coach participants on how to construct and use these incredible systems. This is the system used in places like Otter Cliffs in Acadia National Park.
WOMEN’S CLIMBING - Outback Sport
Outback - Saturday PM
Calling all lady crushers for an afternoon of fun, exciting and challenging sport climbing for all at the Outback! This crag is about a 20 minute hike from the Maidens Cliff trailhead. There is something for everyone! Whether you are a beginner, intermediate, or an advanced climber, we will send it all! There are some stellar sport routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10 and beyond. Advanced climbers are encouraged to check out more challenging climbs and to also support and help coach the less experienced. This will be a supportive and stress-free zone for all you woman warriors to learn something new, push past your comfort zone, refine your skills and build community. Krystal and Sarah have three rules: 1) Step out of your comfort zone and try your best, 2) Support others without judgement, and 3) Have FUN!!
ADVANCED TRAD TECHNIQUES
Guide’s Wall / Ramparts - Saturday PM
You have been leading traditional rock climbs for a while and looking to take your mindset and technical skills to the next level. Perhaps the fear of falling is holding you back? Maybe you missed the lesson on advanced nut craft, creating quick redundancy, when to run it out or not. Or, perhaps you could benefit from a general systems refresher from one of the top guides in the North East! At any rate, you will be participating in a Master Class for lead climbing and you will gain the skills to simply be better on the rock. Participants must arrive with the full climbing kit including: helmet, harness, shoes, chalk back, full rack, and rope.
WOMEN’S CLIMBING - Maiden’s
Maiden’s Cliff - Sunday All Day
Calling all lady crushers for another session, this time ALL DAY, at a beautiful crag high above Lake Megunticook. At Maiden’s Cliff, there is a wide range of beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbs, and home to some stellar top managed climbs requiring a long rappel ranging from 5.7 to 5.10. Advanced climbers are encouraged to check out the various cliffs and more challenging climbs and to also support and help coach the less experienced. This will be a supportive and stress-free zone for all you woman warriors to learn something new, push past your comfort zone, refine your skills and build community. Krystal and Sarah have three rules: 1) Step out of your comfort zone and try your best, 2) Support others without judgement, and 3) Have FUN!!
SINGLE PITCH SELF RESCUE
Barrett’s Cove - Sunday AM
When things don’t go as planned it’s important to have the skills to get you and your climbing partner out of an unexpected situation. Participants will learn single pitch rescue techniques including, knots and friction hitches, taking over belays, ascending the rope to rescue a scared or fallen climber, as well as descend with a fellow climber. We go beyond the general risk management discussion into how to assess and manage risks for climbers setting up outdoor climbs, with a precedent on how to get in front of potential problems before they arise. This clinic is designed for intermediate to advanced climbers with previous outdoor climbing experience. While self rescue is an essential skill that every climber needs, those who frequently climb with less experienced or younger climbers will find this clinic especially useful.
ALL THINGS ANCHORS
TBD - Sunday AM
LEADSTER and SERENE are acronyms commonly used for anchors construction to help climbers remember crucial components like: redundancy, strength, angle, direction, etc. This is what we like to call: All Things Anchors, and this clinic will help you dial in all the basics and some slick and techy bonuses. This is beginner friendly, but we asked that everyone shows up with a helmet and harness. Emphasis will be placed on identifying the three anchor types, inspecting fixed anchors, constructing one point, two point and three point anchors, the LEADSTER acronym and more.
GUEST GUIDING - Climbing Pro - Ryan Howes
Saturday AM and Sunday PM
Festival founder and professional climbing guide Ryan Howes, is available for 2:1 guided adventures both Saturday morning and Sunday afternoon. These four hour adventures are not included with your festival donation however, Ryan is offering these experiences half off his typical rate. And as always, 100% tailored to your ability and goals, and 100% awesome! This offering will go quickly since there is room for just two people per session.
Participants must come prepared with a harness, helmet, shoes, chalk bag, belay device and locking carabiner.
2024 FESTIVAL SCHEDULE
Friday, May 17th, 2024
9:00 AM: Park opens, set up camp anytime of the day
12:00 - 5:00 PM: Volunteer trail work with the Camden Hills State Park Trails Supervisor, Erik Brooks
6:00 - 7:30 PM: Dinnah at the Picnic Shelter… We are having Tacos!
7:00 - 9:00 PM ish: Kickoff Social with CCF Staff, climbing film and guest speakers at the Picnic Shelter (BYOBeverage)
10:00 PM - 7:00 AM: Quiet hours
Saturday, May 18th, 2024
6:00 - 7:00 AM: Breakfast at the Picnic Shelter
7:00 - 8:00 AM: Orientation for clinics, meet your instructors at the Picnic Shelter
8:30 AM - 4:30 PM: Clinics for all (meeting at Barrett’s Cove Beach on Lake Megunticook)
4:30 - 6:00 PM: Swimming and refreshments at Barrett’s Cove Beach on Lake Megunticook
6:00 - 7:30 PM: Dinnah at the Picnic Shelter hosted by local culinary guru India Mc the Green Bean Cookhouse
7:00 - 10:00 PM: Guest Speaker followed by Dance Party at the Picnic Shelter (BYOBeverage)
10:00 PM - 7:00 AM: Quiet hours
Sunday, May 19th, 2024
*deconstruct campsite prior to departing for the days climbing adventure
6:00 - 7:30 AM: Breakfast pop up in group campsites
7:30 - 8:00 AM: A message from CCF Founder, Ryan Howes and Staff
9:00 AM - 4:30 PM: More Amazing Clinics
4:30 PM: Swimming and refreshments at Barrett’s Cove Beach on Lake Megunticook
THE VENUE - CAMDEN HILLS STATE PARK
First step upon arrival is to check in with Camden Hills State Park Staff at the Entrance Booth for vehicle and camping tags. Make sure to announce you are attending the Camden Climbing Festival, Bub! Then, continue taking the first right to CCF Group Camping sites 3, 4 and 5. These sites are first come first serve and holds up to 10 guests per site.
Bring whatever creature comforts you need for the weekend and help us cut back on waste by bringing personal cutlery, plate, bowl and a cup for coffee and evening beverages!
Depending on what time you arrive on Friday, join CCF crew for volunteer trail work, dinnah, and CCF Kickoff Social at the Picnic Shelter. Look on the map above for an icon that shows a small picnic table inside a shelter. You cannot miss it, Bub!
