Rock Climbing Katahdin: all you need to know!
I remember the feeling I had back in 2008 while climbing my first technical rock climb on Katahdin - "I CAN'T WAIT TO CREATE THIS EXPERIENCE FOR OTHERS"! Sharing this beautiful experience and environment with you became the reason why I decided to stay in Maine, and since then, have guided hundreds of technical ascents throughout Baxter State Park, including first ascents on rock, ice and mixed terrain.
During that same year, I joined one of the local high-angle search and rescue teams, jointly training and operating with Baxter State Park Rangers and Maine Game Wardens to rescue hikers and climbers, year round. I was the team climbing leader, first on the scene of several high profile rescues.
I share these anecdotes to lead with this sentiment: Northern Vertical has cultivated great relationships in Maine, park staff, and we have all of the intimate logistical information necessary to have a wicked good time during this upcoming fall rock climbing season on Katahdin!
I remember the feeling I had back in 2008 while climbing my first technical rock climb on Katahdin - "I CAN'T WAIT TO CREATE THIS EXPERIENCE FOR OTHERS"! Sharing this beautiful experience and environment with you became the reason why I decided to stay in Maine, and since then, have guided hundreds of technical ascents throughout Baxter State Park, including first ascents on rock, ice and mixed terrain.
During that same year, I joined one of the local high-angle search and rescue teams, jointly training and operating with Baxter State Park Rangers and Maine Game Wardens to rescue hikers and climbers, year round. I was the team climbing leader, first on the scene of several high profile rescues.
I share these anecdotes to lead with this sentiment: Northern Vertical has cultivated great relationships in Maine, park staff, and we have all of the intimate logistical information necessary to have a wicked good time during this upcoming fall rock climbing season on Katahdin!
Case in point, the video above was created by me in 2021 (not 2001), which captures me and my guest Bob during an ascent of the Armadillo. This iconic route is either a feather in the cap, or a must do route on every climber’s list.
WATCH THE VIDEO AND COME RIGHT BACK…
LOGISTICS FOR TECHNICAL ROCK CLIMBING KATAHDIN
Just like in the video, the following logistics a for day trips in and out of Baxter State Park, with an early morning arrival at the park’s South Gate (Togue Pond) for their 6:00 AM opening.
I get there early enough to make breakfast, hot beverage and make sure packs are ready. After a ranger opens the gate, we drive through, check in, and continue driving several miles down dirt road to Roaring Brook Campground. Once we park, coffee generally sets in and we lighten our load, before commencing the on foot adventure.
After signing the hiking form at the ranger’s hut, we hike 3.3 miles up the Chimney Pond Trail to, you guest it, Chimney Pond. And what a gorgeous sight to see!
Next, we check in with the Chimney Pond Ranger to discuss our route plan and equipment, followed by writing pertinent information on the climbing form. The ranger usually has some helpful information, and always a smile.
From the ranger’s cabin we walk directly to the pond and skirt it to the right, making our way counter clockwise to the far end, where a drainage starts the off trail hiking component to the base of the Armadillo. This 45-60 minute approach is generally “dry enough” when the route is “in season” and it brings us to the lower slabs of the famous winter route, the Cilley-Barber. This summertime waterfall is more like a trickle in the fall and approximately 100’ to the right is the approach shoe, 5.4, two pitch climbing approach to regain the upper trail.
There is an alternate approach to the left of the waterfall up a horrendous vertical bushwack. I promise you, it fully sucks! Do the climb.
Once the climb is complete, we unrope and continue following the drainage trending gently right. Except for two short but exposed steps requiring some short roping and short pitching techniques, this hike is a fun scramble following a continual water source up the Black Fly Gully that splits the Armadillo Buttress and the Flat Iron Buttress (another stellar climb).
After approximately 90 minutes and 1000’ elevation gain, we take the second grassy ledge system hard left to the base of the Armadillo.
At this point, we let the sweat evaporate, fuel up, change layers, and commence the real technical climbing. As a climbing guide who prefers to maintain visual and verbal contact, plus capture your climb on video - I break up the route into several pitches than described in guides books. Six awesome pitches!
Eventually these pitches bring us to a steep rib ridge. Imagine looking down on Katahdin from a Birds Eye view. The Knife Edge is the mountain’s spine and the off shooting ribs are the multiple, huge buttresses of rock with steep climbs, like the Armadillo falling away from these ribs. This particular rib has a lot of exposure on both sides, so we continue to stay roped up, using short pitching and short roping techniques to increase our margin for safety.
Once we gain the intersection of the Armadillo Buttress rib and the Knife Edge, we unrope, high five and sometimes catch the bewildered gaze and exclamations of passing hikers. Most can hardly believe we climbed up 2500’ of vertical terrain. The climb itself can take 2.5-5hrs depending on skill.
We continue hiking to Baxter Peak, the true summit of Katahdin, which is a quick 1/2 mile rock hopping hike for photo ops, followed by a 5 mile descent down the Saddle Trail to Chimney Pond (where I stashed a bunch of nom noms) and back to the vehicle at Roaring Brook.
EQUIPMENT
For a guided day trip I love having plenty of good food and beverage, which is sort of contrary to most alpine climbs, where light and fast is key to success. Because we arrive at Chimney Pond before and after the climb, I carry all of my gear, food and water in a 30 liter pack, and leave it with extra food and beverages hanging on the bear and critter line.
Here is what comes with me for the climb:
20 liter backpack
small first aid kit
sunglasses
ball cap
hooded sunshirt
comfortable climbing specific clothing for the weather
two pairs of lightweight sock (can get wet)
helmet, harness, chalk bag, climbing shoes, approach shoes
60 meter 9.0 single rope
single rack to #3
six alpine runners
two 120 cm slings
ATC Guide and 4 lockers
nut tool
bail / rescue kit, which includes auto bloc and cord
cell phone and in reach
1500 calories
one liter water bottle plus purification for all the yummy Katahdin water
telescoping trekking pole
For my guests I make sure you have climbing specific approach shoes. This is mandatory because it increases our margin of safety and efficiency throughout the day. Same thing goes with clothing, you must have climbing specific layers to deal with the aerobic and anaerobic nature of alpine routes, plus the completely random weather that can and will occur. Here’s what else you need:
climbing shoes, helmet, harness, chalkbag
belay device
three locking carabiners
nut tool
120 cm sling
backpack 15-20 liters
ball cap, sunglasses, sunshirt
comfortable climbing layers for the weather
cell phone
telescoping trekking pole
any creature comforts as long as they are not too heavy and bulky
Gumption! Stoked!
When is the best time of year to book an alpine rock climb with Northern Vertical on Katahdin? NOW!
The best time is end of August until October 15th when the park officially closes. This is the best time for several reasons: the approaches are not as wet, the bugs are mostly gonzo, and the air is cooler and drier…we call this Sendtember and Rocktober baby!!
So I highly recommend jumping on the bandwagon ASAP. At the time of publishing this blog post, I have four Katahdin bookings, so weekends will be in short supply.
Click the link to book your Katahdin Rock Climb