This season is the first time Northern Vertical offered climbing packages and specialty clinics. My Vision for doing so is aligned with NV’s purpose - provide you with the skills to be a solid autonomous climber at all levels. So far, the three concepts I created have been well received with positive results.
Clinic # 1: Route Development - with the end goal for participants to develop their own routes. We focused on vision, ethics, equipment, strategy, tactics, techniques and how to properly place bolts! The result? A brand new mixed trad route with a two-bolt rappel anchor, as well as a two-bolt rappel anchor needed for an existing climb. Check out these four quick clips to see how a bolt is placed.
Video 1 of 4 - Jordan drills a hole with a cordless Makita hammer drill and a 3/8” bit.
Video 2 of 4 - Jordan diligently removes rock dust with a brush and tube.
Video 3 of 4 - Jordan hammers a stud bolt: a four-piece unit that contains a 3.5” bolt, hanger, washer and nut.
Video 4 of 4 - Jordan completes the bolting process by tightening the nut; now the bolt is ready for use - great work, Jordan!
As mentioned in previous posts the weather report has been meager, forcing me to postpone a clinic I am quite excited about. Fortunately the report has snow and colder temps coming our way for what looks like stable conditions for this weekend…
Clinic # 2: The Art of Mixed Climbing - this “for experienced climbers only” clinic covers movement and transitional techniques on ice and rock. This two-day weekend clinic is limited to four participants and provides direct instruction on the ground, loads of climbing and feedback on route. Again, my mission to significantly improve your mountain and movement skills what NV is all about. What else? I get asked often why pay more to work with me versus a big guide service. Or, why choose my clinic over a similar topic at North Conway’s Ice Fest in February? The answer is clear: experience. As the two days progress at Maiden’s Cliff and a newly developed area called Moosejaw, particpant’s get to follow me up first ascents, while a professional photographer gets the goods. This clinic is the result of decades in the field with offerings that are likely unique.
The Art of Mixed Climbing has one last minute open slot available. If you are an experienced winter climber and want to simply be much better, then contact me via email: ryan@northernvertical.com
Total cost for the two days is $450
Eric and Pete on another NV led tour of Maiden’s Cliff. Both experiences led to the development of two new FA’s with Ryan in 2022 and 2023.
These guys got after a classic two-pitch mixed route in Grafton Notch recently and Pete said, “I felt so comfortable leading the mixed section!”
I believe that participating in route development is the complete package experience! This radically improves a climber’s overall ability. Why? Because it captures all three aspects of climbing: physical ability, techniques and mentality. This is a real sport with potentially life altering consequences. Experiencing how routes are developed seemingly lessens fear factor. I do not have a double blind placebo test to show qualifiable data, but the resonant quality I have observed in my guests proves there is something special here.
Last but not least…
The Complete LEARN TO WINTER CLIMB Package - What occurred to me at the end of 2022 rock climbing season in Maine is the need for, and my personal desire to work closely, say 1:1 or 2:1, with budding climbers who want an end game. I created the winter climbing package as 12 private days over the course of a single winter climbing season. By the end of this winter climbing season, you will be able to proficiently climb snow, ice and rock terrain. This package is the prerequisite to a similar future package for learning to lead in winter terrain. Big commitment on many levels. As it aught to be considering the level of risk.
Without going into detail about the winter climbing package details, allow me to share Shan’s story…
Shan and Ryan at the top of Dracula. This was Shan’s third day of ice climbing instruction and he did it in great style and proficient technique.
Shan caught the climbing bug this summer after he and two buddies from the climbing gym spent a full day rock climbing with me in Camden. The idea of enjoying winter via climbing and skiing became a top priority. This package was just what he was looking for. I told him simply, “you will become proficient in all winter climbing skills…and you will overall become proficient at climbing on snow, ice and rock by the end of the winter season”. The final caveat is to trust the process - there are too many factors involved to say what each day will look like.
In addition to instruction I provided coaching on the best clothing and technical equipment to purchase for the experience. As of last Saturday, Shan and I have completed five of those twelve days. Here is a snippet of what those days involved.
Shan learns drytooling on day one.
Day 1 of 12: Drytooling at Camden’s Guide’s Wall
First day of winter climbing is on rock? This generally boggles everyone’s mind, however it’s the key ingredient to establishing a strong foundation for winter climbing. Why? Because metal on rock is the most insecure medium, requiring strong focus and delicate movements.
The best ice climbers displace the least amount of ice possible through a variety of techniques. This is efficiency in motion and performed not be just swinging and kicking with all your might, rather focused and delicate placements with crampons and tools via reading ice as if it were rock. Trust me, this is a game changer.
Day 2 of 12: Route Development and Drytooling at Camden’s Moosejaw Cliff
Shan climbed four drytooling routes on day one and one of those routes was a first ascent. Wild right?! On day two I was hoping for colder temps but was nearly distraught by 50 degree temps. Rather than skip a week we went to a new cliff yet to be developed and I showed him how we First Ascentionist do what we do. The result? Two new mixed routes waiting to be led…actually they will be two of the three FA’s during the Art of Mixed Climbing Clinic. Shan put day one’s rope skills to the test by helping me build a tree anchor, rappel on fixed lines, identify protection options, clean the routes, and bolt them. Shan did a phenonmal job A to Z. He even TR soloed the routes on a Gri-Gri. Lots of learning!
Shan learns how to develop a climb.
Shan TR solos with the mindset of “where should bolts be placed”
Thing One and Thing Two are complete. Both climbs share the same start on rock gear and trend in different direction through bolts, while finishing on rock gear to lower-off anchors. Exceptional mixed climbing! Full stoke here!
Day 3 of 12: Grafton Notch Alpine
With coastal temps failing to create proper winter, Shan and I turned to the western Maine mountains. Grafton Notch is Maine’s premier destination for learning how to climb ice and snow. Easy access, moderate climbing and a beautiful setting. I chose the slabs for this day. We had a blast working and refining techniques. Check out this short film that covers in some detail the instructional tidbits of that outing
Day 4 of 12: Grafton Notch Amphitheater - Moderate Ice Climbing
This day of days was a lot of fun for Shan because he found the medium he loves - ICE ICE BABY!!!
We climbed three routes more than once to satisfy his new love (shhhh don’t tell his wife) for ice climbing. His technique improved and so did his ability to follow lead climbs, removing protection along the way. We climbed multiple NEI 4s that day…
Day 5 of 12: Frankenstein Cliffs - Steep Ice Climbing
If I told you that in just five days you would have the skills to proficiently climb on all three winter mediums, your next question would be, “why pay for 12 days?” haha! Well this was Shan’s experience. Yes he is a fast learner, dedicated to doing his own research, asking lots of questions, watching the videos i send him as well as wanting more homework assignments. I think we can accomplish anything so long as our mindset is right.
On day five, Shan followed me up Standard Route for a moderate multi-pitch. This was to engrain movement on ice and following skills. Then we climbed a -5 in the Hanging Gardens so he could learn how to move up a steep and narrow column, delicately placing tools and crampons, sometimes connect with just one tool and oppositional crampon. He learned fast!
Lastly, we finished the outing with an ascent of Dracula! He climbed it smoothly, removing eight screws along the way. This was impressive as it takes a level head, good technique and fitness to do so, especially on his third day on ice.
Of course there is much more to learn. Day six will focus more on anchors, systems and transitions. This will push Shan to understand how connect ourselves to the environments we climb in, as well as managing ropes during ascents and descents.
If these clinics and packages speak to you, don’t hesitate to connect. I can be reached via email at: ryan@northernvertical.com