Ryan Howes works with climbers who seek cutting edge adventures in Maine. With 25 years of Maine climbing experience there is almost no rock or ice climb Northern Vertical’s 40 year-old owner, professional climbing guide has not climbed or developed. For the accomplished skier and alpinist looking for that next raw and wild adventure, it’s Katahdin that gets the job done and Ryan is your man.
Ryan prepares to lead Fafnir’s crux pitch on Cannon Cliff.
During the winter ice climbing season 2022, I received an Instagram DM from a follower who wanted to climb New Hampshire’s Black Dike. Based on Casey Hubbard’s climbing resume and fitness, I recommended that we get an alpine start and begin the climb via headlamp. The Black Dike is 600’ and three long pitches, with up to an hour approach and 40 minute descent. This is really a half day experience for an athlete of Casey’s caliber so I told him to be prepared to do some mixed climbing that afternoon at Echo Crag.
This experience served as a prerequisite to what Casey was really seeking: a full tilt ass kicking day in the mountains and what better objective than Katahdin - Maine’s Great Mountain - New England’s premiere alpine destination. And what the heck…why not do it in one day. With the Black Dike and some challenging new mixed climbs under Casey’s belt, he was ready to tackle the winter alpine classic, Cilley-Barber.
The Game Plan: meet at the New England Outdoor Center the night before. Since Casey worked that day and driving up from Boston, this was well after I had already gone to bed. Poor Casey. Around 3:30 am I served up a heaping pile of scrambled eggs and coffee, a la breakfast in Tacoma bed for Casey. After scarfing down breakfast and completing gear checks, we hopped on the NEOC’s rental snowmobile and drove approximately 10 miles to Abol Campground.
Early morning commute to Abol Campground…brrraaaaaap!
The Abol ranger greeted us, we hatched the plan for the day and shortly thereafter we were ski touring up the Abol Trail with Baxter Peak summit on the brain. Snow conditions uphill were pleasant and we made fast work up to tree line, efficiently swapping skis for alpine climbing gear. Once we arrived at the massive Tablelands plateau we were greeted with whiteout conditions all the way to the summit of Baxter Peak.
How we got this picture in a whiteout is beyond me!
At this point our journey had just begun. Our plan was to walk the Cathedral Trail down to descent gully #1 that hugs the climber’s right side of South Basin’s massive 2500’ wall of rock, ice and snow. We nailed it with decent snow conditions under foot, down climbed the 1500’ gully and traversed left passing Chauvin-Cole, Flat-Iron Buttress, Armadillo and eventually the base of Cilley-Barber. Just as we began climbing CB, a party of three arrived from the warmth of their cabin at Chimney Pond.
Descending Gully # 1
Up we went, simul-climbing 2000’ of ice and snow interspersed on what felt like an aerobic dance, with the single-pointed focus of efficiency and safety. In no time at all I arrived at the crux pitch and Casey soon joined me. We had made excellent timing above the party of three, so we enjoyed a warm brew and snacks to keep our energy strong, The crux pitch was thin and hollow, making for a demanding lead, but we were up it in no time at all. Forging onward to the ridge, we continued simul-climbing and eventually unroped for our second visit to Baxter Peak!
By this time, Casey and I experienced some parting in the clouds as we traversed the Tablelands, eyeing ski descents for future adventures. Speaking of skis, the most exciting aspect of the day was soon to come as we changed back into touring skis and made our way down the Abol Trail, which is no more than 7’ wide. Alas, we came for adventure and that’s what we got.
NEOC was happy to extend their day use time frame so that we did not have to rush back on our grand adventure, nonetheless they were amazed that we arrived just 14 hours after leaving that morning, with time to spare for gulping down their local Maine brews and burgers - both delicious and well worth the wait!
Casey is already on the hunt for the next big climb. What’s next you ask? The greatest multi pitch rock climb on the east coast - VMC Direct Direct on Cannon Cliff - where our adventures began.
Are you seeking the realest, wildest, personalized climbing adventures in Maine and beyond? Contact Ryan.
