Someone asked me the other day, “Have you ever hiked Katahdin”. I got a little chuckle as I responded with, “Yeah, I have summited Baxter Peak over 200 times, been guiding and providing rescue on Katahdin since 2008”. You can image where the conversation went from there.
Having successfully guided The Armadillo, 5.7 a few dozen times in varying weather from perfect sunny and dry conditions to downpours, I have learned a thing or two about navigating Baxter State Park rules and regulations, ranger support, logistical strategy, precise kit, and pacing the day to make this full day backcountry adventure a rewarding experience worth repeating.
Here is all you need to know to be ready for your Northern Vertical adventure.
Strategy: This adventure is commonly done in one long day having met the night before to prepare. The Park’s Togue Pond South Gate opens promptly at 6:00 am but arriving early is mandatory to wait in line well beforehand. This gives us plenty of time to scarf down sustenance, hydrate, dial in the kit and vision the excellent day ahead.
Approach: After Togue Pond Ranger approval, the eight mile gravel road dead ends at Roaring Brook Campground. A quick signing of the register and a 3.3 mile rocky hike gains 1,332’ of elevation. Prepare to manually lift your lower jaw as Chimney Pond and the precipitous cliffs of South Basin cast pristine elegance and reverent awe. CP is the final ranger checkpoint where a climbing form must be filled out to summarize the details of what equipment is carried, what is the plan, turn around time, points of interest, etc. Many recreational climbers have arrived at this point only to be turned back due to poor planning and a lack of necessary equipment, etc.
Approach Part Duex: Finally! It is time to go where few travel and those who try have been stymied by the intricate, non-trail, thrash-whack, technical approach to the base of The Armadillo. Do not let this deter you as I have plotted the best course that few know of (see video). The gist of it is to navigate around the right side of Chimney Pond to gain the drainage on the opposite side. This serves as a trail all the way to the base of The Armadillo, but pay close attention to the drainage off shoots, so as not to get off course. This rocky and gravel path brings climbers to one of two decisions, 1) go left and up the vertical thrash-whack (which most do), or 2) climb the rock weakness up and right through a slab and left-facing corner system. Guess what I do? Wink, Wink! From here the drainage continues and can be climbed mostly unroped 1,000’ to the base of the climb.
The Climb: The initial feature starts from a comfortable, grassy ledge. The large right-facing corner can be done in two pitches, however I break it up into three for efficient rope work, communication, line of sight, and to capture the experience on camera. For many, this is the crux, requiring a combination of jams, counter balance, opposing forces and chimney climbing techniques. At the top of this corner formation, which looks like a large crooked finger, begins the beautiful Armadillo crack. It rises 80’ to a big ledge and the crux is not getting your foot stuck, haha. The beta…wear approach shoes. One more long pitch continues past a ledge belay well over 100’ to the top spine, where easy 5th and 4th class terrain is efficiently navigated by shortening the rope and climbing together.
Knife Edge Traverse and Baxter Peak: Unroped travel along the KET requires rock hopping 1/3 mile to Baxter Peak, where you could have the entire place to yourself (weekday) or waiting in line for a summit pic (weekend) hint, hint. Standing atop this peak at 5,268’ gains a unique perspective on the surrounding area and beyond. With full visibility, views can range to the Atlantic Ocean and Mount Washington, both well over 100 miles away.
Descent: After successfully climbing the premiere alpine rock climb of Maine and New England, you are really just half-way through the journey. The easiest descent is the Saddle Trail 2.0 miles to Chimney Pond. I prefer this descent for two reasons, 1) water fill up half way down in a flowing creek, 2) Chimney Pond arrival allows for a rejuvenating and restful viewing experience of The Armadillo, reflecting on the day’s adventure, section by section. I like to check in with the ranger and let her or him know about our experience, any new hazards and conditions I found on route. The ranger is happy to provide photography skills with the pond and climb in the background. For some reason this makes that final 3.3 miles back to the vehicle more enjoyable. Perhaps it is due to the back of goodies I left on the bear hang prior to embarking on the climb!
Apres Climb: Just a short drive from Togue Pond Gate and the Park’s south border is an excellent staycation basecamp called the New England Outdoor Center which offers the best view of the Katahdin Massif on Lake Millinocket. NEOC’s River Driver’s Restaurant boasts the best burger in town and local brews. Cheers!
The Armadillo and surrounding rock climbs can be climbed anytime during the summer season, but the best time frame in my opinion is mid August - mid October, with October 15th being the final day of the rock climbing season in Baxter State Park. These months offer favorable temps and few to no bugs! Although winter can show up closer to the end date, October tends to be the most beautiful timeframe for leaf peeping a yellow, orange and red deciduous sea, interspersed with Maine’s iconic green pines.
Contact me, Ryan Howes, professional AMGA climbing instructor and Maine Guide for more information about rock climbing in Maine and to book your next guided Maine rock climbing adventure. Enjoy the film.
Ryan brings Bob up the classic Armadillo, 5.7 rock climb, Maine’s premiere alpine rock climb.