The Art of Mixed Climbing with Ryan Howes
A weekend experience for skilled climbers to advance knowledge, technique and overall technical skills on moderate to advanced mixed terrain.
Ryan Howes, Maine’s premiere professional mountain guide, first ascentionist and owner of Northern Vertical Climbing Guides, brings 25 years of rock, ice and mixed climbing experience to this tight nit course for just four experienced participants. With a Master’s Degree in Education and former Head Guide of three premiere New England climbing guide services, Ryan ensures a high value teaching and learning experience.
Ryan Howes on the FA of Upcycle, M8 in Grafton Notch, 2021 photo: Beau DeCourcy
Course topics:
Equipment selection, application and maintenance
Terrain considerations
Metal on rock - moderate to advanced techniques up to M8
Racking and protection considerations
Movement and efficient technique
Balancing energy - mindset, breath, poise, pace
Fitness and nutrition
Existing climbs and FAs
Bonus knowledge for leading and developing mixed climbs
Since participants come with prerequisite ice and mixed climbing experience, emphasis will mostly be placed on topics (3-8).
Participants must be in shape and ready to perform on a top rope. 25% of the weekend will be dedicated to standing instruction, while 75% of the weekend will be dedicated to climbing. Expect a minimum of 10 excellent pitches from M4 - M8. If appropriate, participants will be allowed to lead suitable routes.
One exciting bonus is the opportunity to climb existing routes and FAs. Ryan has spent considerable time and energy developing Camden’s rock, ice and mixed climbing with over 50 new routes and counting. With several unclimbed dry and mixed routes waiting, you will have the opportunity to climb multiple single pitch moderates, hard roofs and a multi pitch during the FA.
Two climbing photographers will be on sight to capture progress and as always, Ryan captures all experiences on video to deepen the learning experience. Watching your technique and overall experience improves your climbing ability tenfold.
Two Screws Loose, NEI 5, 700’ - New Englands biggest pure ice climb in Northwest Basin, Katahdin. 2019 photo: Ryan Howes
Ryan Howes navigates the crux mixed portion 600’ off the deck during the FA of Two Screws Loose on Katahdin. This monumental New England mixed climb requires 30 miles of backcountry skiing to arrive at its base and has not been repeated. photo Ryan Stanley
The Art of Mixed Climbing with Ryan Howes
January 14-15th, 2023
Advance your skills with a master of the sport. Email: ryan@northernvertical.com
photo: Michael G. Seamans