Camden Maine rock climbing is seeing a surge in route development this year. By the end of the summer 2022, a new rock climbing venue named “Maiden’s Gift” standing high above Lake Megunitcook with over a dozen new climbs will be added to Mountain Project and ready for Camden rock climbers.
The vision for this top access, alpine mountain cliff came when Northern Vertical Climbing Guides owner Ryan Howes was wake boarding on a hot and sunny day on Lake Megunitcook. Howes peered up through binoculars and wondered what the smattering of upper cliffs contained for potential routes.
With a little exploration on rappel and wire brushing, Howes uncovered what he calls, “The best traditional rock climbs in Camden”. Albeit short, the first four routes Howes ticked off were on par, if not better than most of the pure traditional rock climbs that he had climbed in Camden.
Maiden Voyage, 5.9+ This excellent crack in corner finishes in a squeezed v-notch. The first ascent was done by Howes and his client, Sunshine Mechtenberg.
Hand Maiden, 5.9 This pure crack is the only legit hand crack in Camden and will spook just about any leader. You will see why, haha.
Iron Maiden, 5.12a/b Likely the hardest traditional rock climb in Camden with a splitter tips crack suited best for small fingers.
With a nod to the cliff’s namesake, steeped in history after a young Maiden fell off the cliff many years ago, the new crag is surprisingly off the radar for Camden Maine Rock Climbing. Howes believes that the Maiden’s Gift area will be desirable not just because it offers new quality rock climbs, it will offer a wide range of sport, mixed and traditional climbs from 5.4 - 5.12. All climbs are top accessed and must be rappelled to lead, which makes this venue unique for Camden.
Stay tuned!
