This year marks my 22nd year climbing rock and ice and life is feeling sweet. I knew pretty well from an early age that I could turn these passions into a profession. With a little guidance from Robert Frost, “My object in living is to unite, my avocation and my vocation, as my two eyes make one in sight” and so came the realization that I too could do what I love and share it with others. As I reflect on the origins, I feels like a blur. Where did the time go?
If you too are a climber, you have undoubtably been asked by climbers and non-climbers alike, “Where is your favorite place to climb” and being a simple, yet well-travelled climber who appreciates the beauty in all things, I respond with: “They are all my favorite in different ways.” That answer rarely satisfies an inquisitive mind, since after all, most people want to hear about the radically wild places that climbing has taken me. I often share stories about some of the memorable adventures and quite quickly people realize that I spend a lot of time climbing and exploring new first ascents in my home state of Maine.
If there was ever a favorite thing in my life that is quite clear it would be my favorite style of climbing: mixed. Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons and ice tools. A memorable story I share with my clients when they begin mixed climbing is my first time ever leading a mixed climb. I was absolutely terrified when leaving the security of ice for a seemingly 80 degree, blank wall, with less than ideal rock protection. Rather than use the ice tools to hook positive holds, I literally crawled vertically with gloved hands. With some practice I learned how brilliant ice tools and crampons can be.
NV owner Ryan Howes traverses the tail of Dragontail, NEI 5 in Gafton Notch, Maine. Photo: @abby.j.bennett
When I say mixed climbing, I mostly refer to the style of traditional mixed at crags that prepare us for proper mountains. Camden, Maine is where I cut my teeth practicing the art of mixed and where I teach many of my clients on some routes that my mentors established, as well as some of the more challenging routes that I established. I believe that honing mixed climbing skills makes you a better ice climber one hundred percent, because the delicate placements, hooks, and that not-so-bomber feeling you get when hanging from an eighth of an inch of metal on rock transfers nicely to volumes of ice where the tools feel more stable.
In reality, there is nothing more favorite in my life than venturing upward on a technical and complex mixed climb that involves the full bag of tricks physically and mentally on traditional protection. My first weekend back in the saddle with my buddy @ne.trad.life accomplished just that. After a brief mission at Frankenstein Cliffs climbing a thin mixed Standard Route Right and Penguin, we climbed Fafnir in early season conditions. The adventure was committing and engaging - a headspace I enjoy.
NV owner Ryan Howes negotiating the mixed crux of Two Screws Loose, NEI 5, M5. A First Ascent on Katahdin’s Northwest Basin, 2019.
Having developed numerous first ascents throughout Maine on naturally protected climbs, I have recently looked into what else could be climbed if a bolt or two or three could establish something new, challenging, fun and repeatable for this coming generation of climbers.
22 years ago my mentor Jerry Cinnamon took our college class on a multi-day introduction to winter mountaineering course in Grafton Notch State Park, Maine. We learned the classic crampon walking techniques and alpine axe techniques including self-arrest. However, the majority of the class focused on the art of ice climbing. The Amphitheater is one of the more accessible, beginner - moderate ice climber friendly areas in northern New England and we were quickly humbled by grade 3 - 5 ice.
Eventually I became a professionally certified climbing instructor and I too was taking students / clients to this locale. As my skills progressed, I began looking between the established climbs and around the corners to see what else could be done. As you arrive in The Amphitheater, your attention is capture by a rock prow looking like the front hull of a ship parked between two ice formations. I looked at it for years and thought that the vertical seam could produce some features to hook ice tools and crampons, but would it be deep enough for pitons and mechanical rock protection?
Recently, I decided to finally take a look and the former was a heck yes - it had features to hook, and the latter, was a heck no - the seam was not deep enough for pitons and mechanical protection. My mind began to imagine opening pandora’s box. If I bolted this climb, I could be making a huge mistake, or I could be turning what looks like a beautiful line into a new, challenging, fun and repeatable climb for climbers to continue developing their mixed climbing craft.
I decided that it was worthy. The end result is something that is a fun story to tell as the name of the climb has significant meaning and connection to the classic mixed climb, The Black Dike, in New Hampshire. Stay tuned for next weeks post about that connection and the process of developing my new route - Upcycle, M9.
Want to learn the art of mixed climbing? Check out the CLIMB link on my website to learn more and contact me at ryan@northernvertical.com to book an experience.
-Ryan Howes